Having set out to get as far as Mousehole, we discovered that it would be easier to park up at one of the laybys on the road from Mousehole to Newlyn. And it didn’t look like it would be too much further, so we went for it.
Back to Penberth …
… and right from the start it was tough going. There were loads of uneven steps up out of this pretty little cove. We hadn’t really had time to get in to our stride so we’d got to the top before we thought about counting them. Suffice to say we hadn’t hit such a hard climb this side of Christmas! Hilary counted 113 going down to Porthguannon cove and we could see the equal and opposite climb up the other side!
Little did we know that this fab waterfall would be a sign of things to come. Waterfalls, streams, rivulets, puddles and all other things watery would become our feature for today! As well as really tough stretches of path.
The steps up out of Porthguannan – 150 – proved to be even more of a killer! although the view at the top was fantastic. We hadn’t checked the likely effort for today’s walk in advance by examining the map contours – but we were hoping that the worst was behind us.
There were fewer bulk carriers to be seen moored out in Mounts Bay. There were 3 obvious ones – so we assumed that the others from last last week must have got some jobs and gone on their way.
We had spotted a lone (?mad) fisherman out on the rocks on the east side of Porthguarnan and Hilary managed to get the close up of him. Thankfully the sea was pretty easy-going today so there was little chance of him getting washed away!
On our last walk we commented on how helpful some of the way marks had been – this one was quite the opposite!
A pretty woodland area marked the beginning of secluded St Loy, where there are few properties but a really picturesque location, with lush greenery …… growing beside the stream …
… which had its very own little waterfall.
The beach at St Loy has clearly suffered from the winter storms and there was this collection of jetsam….
…as well as this extraordinary piece of pipework randomly washed up – my walking pole shows the huge scale of it :
This contributed to the detour we had to take which involved a scramble across the boulders and we could see that the path, just above the beach, was impassable. On the far side of the cove the path has been completely re-routed to due subsidence.
After St Loy we came across this patch of daffodils, one of many growing wild. They seem to be a cultivated strain so have probably been discarded from farmed areas in the past. This part of Cornwall has been well-known for supplying daffodils all around the country.
From Boscawen Point onwards the path became horrible in places – very difficult, probably the most difficult we have encountered on any of our walks – with running water, even waterfalls to negotiate, great big boulders to scramble across (up and down) and very muddy.
‘Water, water everywhere’ … and most of it seemed to be draining off the land down to the sea. This proved to be the wettest area today and we could hear little streams running everywhere around us through the undergrowth. Another waterfall was further evidence :
We knew that there must be some 3 cornered leeks ahead as their overpowering scent gave us some advanced notice, although this was the only patch we came across today.
There is a little lighthouse off the end of Tater-du. Apparently in 1965, after this part of the coast was the scene of more than the usual number of wrecks, it was decided to build a lighthouse here.
Passing more daffodils everywhere along here we came to the Derek and Jeannie Tangye nature reserve : a Place for Solitude.
Just before reaching Lamorna Cove we came across another waterfall – and this time we had to actually scramble across it; it was extremely hazardous, rocky, uneven and slippery.
This small Cornish cross overlooking Lamorna Cove is a memorial to a student who fell to his death here in 1873.From here we staggered down over the treacherous rocky path. Just at the start of the cove we saw this sign for a public car park, although clearly it is now anything but! Perhaps it used to be, but certainly no more.
Lamorna seems to have been ravaged by the recent storms and there was a general air of it being in need of some TLC.
We could see piles of granite quarry stones on the far side of the cove and Hilary’s book explained that they had been used in the building of the Cafe Monaco in London’s Piccadilly as well as the Bishop Rock and Wolf Rock lighthouses.
This massive piece of jetsam had been washed up on the shore. Locals have speculated that it may have come from an oil rig.
Just here the fast flowing Lamorna runs into the sea and at this spot we could see Gunnera in bud. Something I’ve never seen before – its huge leaves were only just starting to unfurl.
I couldn’t resist capturing this beautiful name of one of the cottages.
On our way up and beyond Lamorna we met these two striking Saluki dogs – Shilo (the white one) and her daughter Talula (and their owner). They looked a little too elegant and fragile to be tackling this rugged terrain!
From the top of Carn-du there are some lovely stone steps which have been set sympathetically into the surroundings :
Above Slinke Dean (love the name!) we passed through this woodland area marked as a nature reserve …
… and along the way the path was literally a stream, with yet another waterfall.
In some places it was so boggy that we, along with some fellow walkers, struggled to keep our footing. We discovered afterwards that someone had taken a tumble up to his elbows where the path was at its the worst. It could so easily have been us!
More pretty daffodils of a different strain adorned the path here :
At Penzer Point the air was filled with the heady pungent scent of violets :
Just before we reached Mousehole, we passed Point Spaniard which is reputed to be where the Spaniards landed in 1595.
We arrived at Mousehole at about 2pm.
Following the coast path through Mousehole, we took a bit of a detour along the beach to avoid some of the road, keeping St Clements Isle in sight …
…and eventually found our way back to the car in the layby just in to Newlyn. We think about 7.5 miles this time – we have yet to calculate the distance. But it feels great to be building up our stamina, so that we can tackle more as the days grow longer. Our next leg could take us over 8 miles.